Hi there,
Welcome to my blog. This blog is about my journey to a beautiful place in Maharashtra i.e. Konkan - The costal region of Maharashtra. I really don't like using English as a means to describe my journey. Writing about Konkan in English is as bad as writing a love letter in Morse-code.
I was invited by my friend Bandya (Pravin Akerkar) to visit his native place - Malvan to experience the Ganesh Festival. Malvan is a beautiful small village on the coast of Maharashtra, around 500 kms south of Mumbai and is gifted with a very beautiful beach. I had heard in past that Ganesh festival is celebrated with great enthusiasm in Konkan but I never had an opportunity to experience it myself. So, I agreed to go there without any second thought. Few days later Bandya booked two tickets to Malvan for me and him. And I was all set and excited to visit Malvan at this time of the year when Konkan is enriched with natural sceneries. And travelling in Konkan at this period is a treat to your eyes, mind and soul.
Journey to Katta, Malvan:-
On 5th Sep, 08, Bandya and I got ready, packed our bags and left home at 3:30 pm. We had to catch a private bus from Jogeshwari-Vikhroli Link road at 4:30. As usual and keeping to our Indian tradition the bus came late, almost half an hour late i.e. at 5:00 pm. We just jumped into the bus found our seats, placed our bags in the upper rack and just relaxed on the comfortable soft seats (which were not as comfortable as they seemed in the beginning, because they were home to lots of bed-bugs, which began to comfortably suck our blood as the time passed by). Bus took many twist and turns around the city roads to pick up the passengers from the pre-defined pickup points. This journey was quite boring but once the bus left the city at around 8 pm. I felt better and enjoyed the ride. Bandya and I were enjoying the journey, talking about many things, sharing our college life experiences and we both didn't realized when we fell asleep. Bandya had quite a trouble sleeping, due to the bugs. We woke up when the bus took a halt at a small restaurant by the road side late at night. We finished our dinner within half an hour and got into bus again. Then we fell asleep again. Bus stopped early in the morning at somewhere 2 a.m. near a small tea shop (tapari) for some refreshments. This place seemed so remote even though it was on the national highway. It was a very dark night. Even the stars were not visible due to thick blanket of clouds. And this place was like a small island in a sea of darkness. The engine of the bus made a starting noise and we realized that driver has boarded the bus and it's time to take our seats. And then again we fell asleep. Our sleep was disturbed by the loud noise of the bursting rear tyre of the bus. I opened my eyes to see the sunshine. We were at Lanja. Everyone got down while driver and cleaner began to change the tyre. The place where we stopped was beautiful and the morning sun rays were pouring more beauty into it. Tyre was changed. We were ready to go again. And this time we didn't fall asleep. I was enjoying the view from the bus window while bandya was busy cursing the bed bugs. Finally we arrived at our destination, not Malvan but Kasal. We got down and waited for Mahesh (Bandya's younger brother) who's also a friend of mine and works in the same office. Mahesh arrived within 5 minutes in a shining white Santro. He welcomed me to his native place and we began to travel towards Katta, a small village in Malvan.
The Akerkar Family:-
Our car entered in the market of Katta. As soon as the market ended car took a left turn and left the main road behind. In front of me I could see only trees, but after looking carefully I saw a school and some houses near by. And I thought to myself, "Wow, what a lovely place to build a house at, right among trees and farms right beside". The situation here is completely opposite to what we get to see in the city. In city u get to see some trees hidden behind tall buildings. But here houses were hidden behind Trees. It's so nice to have a home in the arms of nature. I even tried to locate Bandya's house in Google earth but all I could see was trees. It's very difficult to pin-point the exact location of his house among surrounding trees. When we came close, I saw a narrow path leading towards his house. There was a pond right beside the path and it looked beautiful. Then there was a garden in front of the house, and the house was named Priya, in memory of Bandya and Mahesh's beloved sister. Mahesh parked the car beneath a shade. We took out our bags, entered into the house and sat there and relaxed for a while. Pratiksha tai (Bandya's wife) and Ashwini Vahini (Mahesh's wife) had made upma for us. Bandya and I took a bath and enjoyed our breakfast and a cup of hot tea.
After a while I met Bandya's dad. I had previously met him in my friend's engagement. He recognized me at first sight, and he also welcomed me in their home town. Bandya's dad was a teacher by profession and had spent many years as a Principal of Waradkar High School, Katta, before getting retired. We all got ready and headed for Pendur, another small village in Malvan. Katta and Pendur are exactly on the opposite sides of the road leading to the Malvan Beach. Akerkar family usually celebrates Ganesh Utsav in their old house in Pendur. This is where Bandya's dad had spent his childhood. I was initially bit nervous since I was going to a place where except Bandya's family, nobody knows me. Well, I've travelled many places and I have no trouble getting along with people. But little nervousness is always there when u have to face so many unknown people. It's a human nature after all. But all my assumptions and worries just popped away when I met the entire Akerkar family. As Bandya introduced me to all of his family members like his cousins, uncles, aunts I felt like being part of their family. They looked very comfortable to be with. One by one when I personally came across them they talked to me as if they've met me long time ago. While I was standing in front of Ganesh Idol and praying to the lord I heard Mahesh whispering "Ha aahe Pranay, amcha mitra" (This is Pranay, my friend). I looked back and I saw Mahesh standing with his mother. She was wearing welcoming smile on her face. And I felt more relaxed. She seemed happy to have me there in their home. That's the sweetness you'll find in any Konkani person. Well, I'm also Konkani but I don't think I'm that sweet. Heheeeh. Only my friends can tell u if I'm sweet or not. Well jokes apart. My native place is on the northern end of Konkan. It's called Satpati and comes under Palghar district. But the true colors of Konkani culture can be seen in Raigad, Ratnagiri, Devgad and Malvan. As you move away from these places, the colors fade off. As you enter a city like Mumbai, you see no colors, only outlines. Outlines of city streets, buildings, offices, flyovers, cars pollution etc. there are endless things to name it. All rigid but no colors. I hope you are getting what I'm saying.
Mahesh had told me that if their guests don't feel at home then they feel awkward. They will never fall short of hospitality but u have to feel at home and have to become a part of them. Well, then Aai (Mahesh's mom) took three of us in a separate room and we had some breakfast there. I was feeling hungry anyways and I couldn't deny the temptation of eating "Fodnicha bhaat" (In Bandya's language – Konkani Fried Rice). I was getting to meet more and more members of Akerkar family and I was feeling more comfortable with them also, as if they are my family.
Lake View Cafe:-
After spending some time chit chatting with some relatives I headed out for Sindhdurg railway station with Mahesh. We had to drop some relative of Mahesh at station and that too in time. Only 40 minutes were left for the arrival of the train and it takes around 40 minutes to reach there by car. Mahesh was up for the challenge and he drove the car as fast as possible. We just arrived at the station and heard the announcement about the arrival of the train. Mahesh's relative ran to the ticket window, got his ticket and boarded the train. Mahesh had accomplished his mission. I could see satisfactory grin on Mahesh's face. Mahesh then decided to pay a visit to their paying guest in their new apartment in Sindhdurg Nagri. After doing that we then headed straight home.
After arriving home Bandya took the car keys and asked me be seated in the car only, while others got down. I knew Bandya was taking me for ride around Pendur and some sight-seeing. Bandya wanted to show me everything that's there in Malvan, worth seeing. He took control of the steering wheel and we followed the curvature of the road. The open road soon went into a forest. Car stopped after driving some distance into the forest, we got down and after walking past few trees I saw a big, beautiful lake. It was a nice silent and pleasant climate and the Lake View was superb. This view reminded me of the Lake view Café in Renaissance Hotel, Powai, where I had spent a nice evening with a very sweet friend of mine. The only difference in both the views was that in Lake View Café the view of the lake was accompanied by the calm and soothing ambience of the café, a fancy dinner, soft lighting, nice music and we were enjoying the view from behind a glass window pane. And here I was enjoying the view as it was. With the sound of the lake water, chirping of the birds, cool breeze with a soft aroma of the lake water, and the sound of leaves when the wind was playing around them every now and then. Well, I don't want to compare both the experiences since both were different in their unique way. We spent some time there, relaxed and disturbed the silence by throwing some pebbles in lake water expecting them to hit the water surface several times before sinking down. Unfortunately they all sank the moment they touched the water surface. Before making any more failed attempts we returned to the car. While returning from the forest patch we saw a Ghorpad (Monitor Lizard) lying carelessly in the middle of the road. As soon as I took out my camera to take a picture, the lizard ran into the bushes, as if it was a big celebrity and won't let me take picture so easily. I kept the camera back into my pocket and we drove off from there. Few minutes later a vaneru (small species of snake) crossed the road, slithering. And even before I could touch my camera it disappeared from our sight. We reached home without getting any more sights of wild life.
After a while aarti started. I also joined in since I knew aarti and started singing along with everyone. Soon I realized that they were all singing the aarti to a different tune. I felt like the only off tuned singer among them. I brought my volume down and sang the aarti loud enough so that only I could hear it and tried to catch up with the new tune. After aarti we had lunch followed by some discussions of various things going around (in other words – gossips).
Hard Rock Café:-
In the evening of the same day Bandya, Pratiksha tai, Mahesh, me ad Kiran (Bandya's cousin) went for a drive to pay a visit to their relatives and take blessings of Ganesh idols in their home. I really enjoyed the drive because the roads we were driving on were totally straight. They were stretched straight for a very long distance and there was flat ground on both the sides. I was missing my Pulsar 220 like crazy.
We entered a village called Perule, where the Oscar nominated Marathi movie "Shwaas" was shot. We first went to Bandya's auntie's place. While sitting there I spotted a trophy and it was related to the movie "Shwaas". I was wondering what this trophy was for and who's got it? Bandya told me that his uncle had played a small role in the movie. When this movie was nominated for Oscar, all the artists associated with this movie were given a trophy. I was introduced to Bandya's auntie first. She asked us all to sit and gave us Karanjis (A Maharashtrian snack) and tea. Bandya's uncle then came from somewhere and I found his face familiar. Then I thought, "No wonder, he's played a role in the movie Shwaas". After a few chit-chat we headed to our next destination. We had a very limited timing for our mini-tour since baba (Bandya's dad) had strictly told us to be back before 8:30 pm. We then paid visit to some relatives here and there. And then all of a sudden, the 'over-heat' indicator started flashing and before we could do anything, smoke started coming out from the hood. Mahesh did shut off the engine quickly but the damage was done. We went to open the hood but it was hot like fire. We couldn't figure out what the problem was so Mahesh decided to go to the nearest garage and Bandya, Pratiksha tai and I started walking towards the opposite direction. Bandya told me that we were going to some relatives and will wait there till Mahesh and Kiran come back with the repaired car. We spent some time inside. Pratiksha tai indulged herself in chatting with a lady in the house while Bandya and I came out. We sat on a sofa shaped seat made of concrete and it was rock solid. Bandya was physically present there with me, but all he was thinking of or rather was worried about, was his car. He called up Mahesh to find out what the problem was and will it get sorted out in time or not? But even after talking to Mahesh, Bandya wanted to be there to see what's happening with the car. He borrowed a bicycle from a neighbor and asked me if it's ok if he leaves me alone here. I said it's absolutely fine. I can understand his worries about the car because I'm also a proud owner of Pulsar 220 and can not stand a minor problem in my bike. I can go on and on and on if I start talking about my bike. But with a very heavy heart I'm gonna end my bike's topic here itself.
Well then there I was with a company of myself. The place was dark. Street lights were dim. Silence was broken only when people walked by or a vehicle passed by. Even though I was alone I didn't feel lonely. I was observing the people passing by. How they give regards to each other. How they ask each other, how their day was. And I felt, in this village no one stranger to each other. Every person knows every other person in the same village. And in our city, most of us don't even who leaves in our neighborhood. I spent some time alone without getting bored. Actually I liked the experience of sitting there all by my self and observing the things going around. After a while I was accompanied by a short skinny guy. He came, looked at me and sat besides me. For a while he remained silent, spoke to the people passing by and then asked me where I was from. I told him I'm from Mumbai and have come to the Akerkar's. I wasn't surprised to know that he knew Akerkar family. Then asked me where my native place is, what's my profession and some other stuff. Soon he began talking to me quite frankly. It was a nice talk we both had. Meanwhile someone had gone inside the house and told Pratiksha tai that your guest is sitting alone outside. I was shooting a video of a kid playing with firecrackers when Pratiksha tai came and asked me why I'm sitting there alone. I think she must have thought that I was getting bored. Actually she had thought that I had gone with Bandya to the garage. I assured her that I'm having a good time here and not to worry about me. Believing my words she went back in. After spending quite a long time sitting on that rock solid sit, I was feeling little uncomfortable. I stood up, stretched my body and named that place as HARD ROCK Café of Malvan.
Very soon a figure appeared from the darkness. When his face was lit by the streetlight I saw Bandya exhausted after having ridden the bicycle for quite a long distance. Then two bright head lights appeared. It was Mahesh and Kiran in the car. The problem was solved but not completely. We had to travel at a very slow speed and had to keep a constant check on the temperature hand of the car. We all sat in the car. Bandya called up baba to inform that we won't be able to make it in time and the reason behind it. We traveled at very slow speed and took some halts in between when the temperature of the engine began to rise. Going uphill was very critical but Mahesh somehow managed to push it through. The journey back to Pendur was quite memorable since we were driving on a dark deserted road and the front-lit trees on the both sides of street were looking haunting. To make the situation worse, it began raining very heavily. We could hardly see anything ten feet away from the car. And the raindrops coming in the direction of the windshield looked like thousand arrows shot at us when they were lit by the headlight. I don't know what Mahesh was going through but he didn't stop the car. He kept going. And the rain had actually helped to keep the engine cool. After a while when rain turned into a drizzle, Mahesh pressed the accelerator and picked up some speed. We completed half hour of journey in 1 and half hour. Later we had our meal, and went back to Katta for taking a sleep. I want to specially mention the dinner we had that night. And the reason is solkadi. Solkadi is made with kokam, an Indian spice. Aai had made a very delicious solkadi that evening. It was hot and spicy and yummmmmmmy. That was the best solkadi I had so far.
Sakni-Takni:-
My second day in Malvan, I woke up by 8 in the morning. It was a pleasant climate outside. The garden around the house was looking beautiful and refreshing. After taking bath I came out and joined Bandya and Mahesh at the vharanda (Part of the house at the main door). We had our breakfast and tea there, with a garden around and a green farm in my sight, I enjoyed my breakfast. Soon we went back to Pendur. It was the last day of this year for the lord Ganesha in their home. We had to carry out Ganesh Visarjan in the evening. After spending around half an hour there Bandya took me for a ride on his bike. He told me that he is going to take me to a very interesting place. The place is called Sakni-Takni, and I thought "Well, name definitely IS INTERSTING".
We first arrived at a very old temple. It was a temple of Sateri Devi. I went in, took blessings of the goddess, did a good observation of the temple from the inside, and came out. Then we started walking from the backside of the temple. We were walking uphill. After walking for a minute or so, Bandya stopped and asked me to carefully look around. He asked me if I expect to see something unusual here. I looked around, it was dense forest before me I did not expect anything else than trees and some wild life. Bandya had started walking again. I followed him. We were at the edge of the forest. Now I had to push the branches of plants aside to make a room for walking. And suddenly I came across a headless statue of a man that resembles with Mahavir. I looked around and there were several ancient statues lying there, unattended. "This place is called Sakni-Takni", Bandya told me. Villagers here believe that these statues are around 1500 years old. I was wondering how come the Department of Ancient studies and Archeology hasn't taken notice of these statues till now. Bandya told me that few Government officers had come to see these statues. But they just observed these artifacts and left. They never returned again. The origin, creator and the purpose of these artifacts is still an unsolved mystery. I took out my camera, took many snaps and then we started walking back. While coming back from there I saw something very disturbing. There were lots of lemons lying there on the ground and they were pierced with pins. I realized that people perform black magic here. Bandya might have read the reactions on my face and said "Yes, many people here do believe in Black Magic". Then he asked me another question, and the question was if I believe in black magic. If I was asked this question few years back then I would have answered "No", straight away. But now my perspective on these things has changed. Back then I didn't use to believe anything that can not be scientifically proven. But there are many things that can not be scientifically proven but yet they exist. For a simple example, human brain is still a mystery for medical science. So far we can only determine which part of the brain is actually activated when we do certain things. But exactly how it works no one knows. If science can not explain Brain, does that mean it doesn't exist? There are many unexplained things that we yet have to discover. I can write another blog on this topic. Or else u can watch programs on this subject on Discovery or NGC. I was so totally lost in my thoughts after visiting Sakni-Takni, that I didn't realize we had arrived back to the place where we had parked the bike. I sat on the pillion seat and set off for our next destination. Images of those statues were still hovering before my eyes.
Bush walk:-
Bandya had brought me to the Vetaal Mandir. Vetaal is an avatar of Bramha and is a god of spirits. Don't mistake this God Vetaal for the Vetaal in Vikram-Vetaal stories. That's the same mistake I had done, but Bandya clarified my doubt. We went inside, bowed before the idol. And stood there for a while, and good that we did, because I got to see an interesting thing. A man came from behind us, whispered something to the priest (Bramhan), and then bramhan turned to the idol and started speaking aloud. As if he was speaking to the god. I was observing this whole ritual carefully. After a while Bandya said this is called "Garhane". I realized that Bandya is getting better and better at reading my mind. It is believed that a priest can communicate with the god. Therefore whatever it is that you are seeking, u have to tell it the bramhan and he will pray to the lord to fulfill your wishes or desires. I'm glad I got to witness this, because I had only read about it in my school text books. While we were descending down from the temple stairs I noticed a newly married couple entering the temple. They were carrying various objects in soop (an object made from bamboo sticks). Bandya told me that all these objects in the soop are collectively called as 'vaan'. A newly married couple offers this vaan to the lord to take the blessings for their new married life. I imagined Bandya – Pratiksha tai and Mahesh – Ashwini Vahini carrying out the same ritual in the same temple.
Before aarti, food was served for every member of the family, and it was served in Banana leaf. These banana leaves were kept in front of the god Ganesha to bless the food. After aarti, we all sat together to have our food. Bandya's uncle was looking around for something and his eyes stopped at me. I was wondering what he was looking for, when he said "Look, Pranay got lucky. He's got the food that was served for the Ganesha". Everyone looked at me and smiled. Bandya patted on my back and said, "You are lucky". I felt like winning a big prize. I prayed to Ganesha to help me fulfill all my wishes and dreams. I hope luck will be with me in every aspect of life.
Later in the evening everyone was getting ready to say goodbye to their dear god, Ganesha. A carpet was laid on the ground just outside the front door on which Bandya drew a rangoli. The idol of Ganesha was carefully brought out of the house and was kept on the carpet. All the women in the house, one by one bowed to the god and took rice grains from Ganesha's feet as a symbol of his blessings. Then the idol was kept in the car and we call started walking behind the car which was driven at a very slow pace. We all were cheering, "Ganpati Bappa Morya, Pudchya varshi lavkar ya". People coming back from the procession were giving out Prasad to everyone they were coming across. We reached a small river after a long walk. I saw small children playing in the water and adults carrying out the immersion of the idols. Bandya was telling me when he was a kid how he used to cry, seeing beloved Ganesha leaving their home, and how that picture has changed when we have grown up. Then the idol was placed on the river bank. We all stood before it and sang the last aarti of the year for the God. The immersion of the Ganesha idol was carried out. We all returned home. We were getting to ready to go back to Katta. Bandya's uncle and aunt's invited me for next Ganesh Festival well in advance. Bandya's Aunty told me, "Pranay, next year you have to come before the Ganesha arrives. And have to spend the entire festival with us". It felt great to hear that. Bandya's family sat in their car. Bandya ad I got on the bike. I waved at everyone, said Goodbye and we left in the darkness of the night. This time it was me riding the bike. It brought some relief to me as I was missing my bike, the mighty 220.
While the car went ahead, Bandya and I stopped in the market to pick up a bag of milk. The market was shutting down as it was late in the evening. We took a milk bag and before leaving from the market Bandya took me to a place to see the decoration set for the Ganesh festival. It was a decoration with a story and had moving statues. It was named 'Bhimaache Garvahaan'. The lights were put off and the pre-recorded narration of the story started. I enjoyed this unmanned play and we both set off for home. We had delicious Biryani for dinner which was sent by Ashwini vahini's mother. The Biryani was so amazing and it had that Malvani taste in it. I couldn't stop licking my fingers. My mind was telling me, "Taste ko waste na karo". It was my last meal with the Akerkar family, just for the time being. We had a nice talk during our meal. Aai asked me to take a long vacation when I'll plan my next visit to Malvan. She wanted me to come back and spend longer time with them.
Back to the Routine: -
Before we went to sleep, Me, Mahesh and Bandya were reminding each other that from day after tomorrow our routine life will start again. I didn't like the idea and was thinking of not going back but at the same time I knew I ought to go. Next day we got up early in the morning. Got ready, packed our bags and arranged them well at the back of the car. Mahesh, Ashwini Vahini, Bandya, Kiran ad me were leaving for Mumbai. Pratiksha tai had decided to stay back. Before leaving I met baba, aai. I bowed to them with respect and took their blessings. I made the entire Akerkar family stand before their beautiful house and clicked a Family photograph with my 2 megapixel camera-phone. The picture in the camera was not as beautiful as it was in my eyes, mind and heart. We all sat in the car, waved at Baba, Aai and Pratiksha tai and drove in the direction of the Mumbai city.
On the way we stopped over at Bandya's childhood friend, Appa (that's what they call him. I don't know what his actual name is). He had invited us to see his weekend home project which was under construction. Appa had bought a large property and was building this weekend home project for a business purpose. This guy is brilliantly business minded and has a great foresight. He took us to show his under-construction project. He also told us about his future planning. I hope he succeeds in all his ambitions. He's also a dog lover. He has many breeds of dogs as his pets and they have their own home built for them. Some of the dogs are horribly huge. I dared to click their snaps only because they were locked in their cages. We spent around half an hour at his place, and we left. It felt good to finally move away from those huge dogs. I know they were nicely tamed but I personally don't like dogs and maintain some distance from them. You can say I'm afraid of dogs, I don't mind.
The journey later on was quite pleasant. I started playing my Harmonica (Mouth Organ) once the car was moving at a steady pace. We enjoyed the drive back to Mumbai. Bandya was telling me that he wanted to show me many more places around but had a time barrier. Just imagine, it took me 9 pages to describe 2 days stay at Malvan. Had I stayed there for a week or so, I could have written a book on Konkan and it's culture. The journey continued. We did take halts in between for some lunch, dinner and some refreshments. We even got to witness many Ganesh Processions while moving through various towns and villages. We reached Mumbai at around 2 in the morning. Everyone was feeling damn sleepy. I got down at Aarey Colony and took a rickshaw.
Next day the same routine started. I got up and got ready for office. Wore my black DSG jacket. Took my black bag on my shoulders. Black helmet was on my head. And my black mighty Pulsar 220 was waiting for me after a long break. I hopped on to my bike and enjoyed my ride till office. I knew that was the last joy for the day since I was getting into the office afterwards... just kidding. I enjoy my work as well.
I met Mahesh and Bandya in office and they looked different in office this time. The change was not in them. The change was in my perception.
I want to thank Bandya and Mahesh for having me at their beautiful native place in Malvan for Ganesh Festival. It was a good experience indeed.
- Pranay Meher
_-_The_Virgin_of_the_Rocks_(Royal_Collection).jpg)
